Air Pressure Read Out on Golf R

#i

fly300kts is offline

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DIY - Oil pressure Read Out

Hi Guys,

You must have recently read on the site numerous engine problems due to loss of oil pressure level. Since the VFIZ has the read out capability, I relocated the OEM sensor and added a pressure switch. Of course, yous can use other gauges if you lot don't take the VFIZ.

Time = 3 hrs
Difficulty = 3

Relocation Kit
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Oil...Kit_p_314.html

Sensor
0 to 100 PSI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-oil-fue...a33971&vxp=mtr

Remove from his location the coolant tank and secure it on the side (do non disconnect hoses)

I did not take a flick of the OEM sensor in place just it'south basically located on the driver side, back of the engine (right backside the oil cooler).
Location identified with the red arrow and in this case, relocation line already installed.

Disconnect sender electrical connector
Y'all will need an extended 24 mm socket to remove the sensor. One time the socket is in identify, there is no room to install the ratchet.
Enlarge one side hole of the socket to exist able to fit a pry bar.

Modified socket

Pry bar installed

The sensor (at list mine) was not actually tight in place. Remove the sensor. At the base, you will run across a apartment washer continued to a wire (ground). Cut 2 inches of the wire.
Install the extension hose and run vertically (new sensor already installed on this picture)

http://s31.photobucket.com/user/fly3...tml?sort=iii&o=7

Solder a new wire to the washer recovered from the OEM sender. At the other stop of this wire, solder the large connector, provided in the 42DD kit.
Protect with heat shrink.
Install OEM sender onto 42DD plumbing equipment and interface the OEM washer (red arrow)

Remove footing nut from firewall and connect the other end of the wire (red arrow)
Your fitting is at present perfectly grounded

Cut an i inch away from the OEM sensor electrical connector. Extend the wire (solder) from the old location to the new location.
Protect with rut shrink
Plug OEM pressure level switch
Plug new pressure level switch
Run to wires from the new sensor to the new oil force per unit area approximate
Install the coolant tank
Start the car for 10mn at idle and cheque for leaks, especially at the base on extension hose

You are washed

For information, with with engine oil at temperature (80C), your oil pressure should be:

Idle 1 Bar - 14.v PSI
3000 RPM 3.5 to 4.v Bar - 50.7 to 65.2 PSI

Let me know if any question

Phil


#ii

Older_not_Wiser is offline

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I am planning on fixing an oil leak from up behind the oil filter this summer and doing a carbon clean at the aforementioned time. Looks like a perfect time to add oil pressure level sender/extender. I take P3 cars gauge and it has a few 0-5V open ports for adding other gauges/measurements.
Thanks Phil, looks similar the hardest part is getting to the OEM sender location.

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#3

fly300kts is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by Older_not_Wiser View Post

I am planning on fixing an oil leak from up behind the oil filter this summertime and doing a carbon make clean at the same time. Looks similar a perfect time to add oil pressure level sender/extender. I have P3 cars judge and it has a few 0-5V open ports for calculation other gauges/measurements.
Thanks Phil, looks similar the hardest part is getting to the OEM sender location.

Access is pretty tight just doable.

Phil


#5

yung turbo is offline

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how did yous become the reading to come on your dash screen?

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#6

fly300kts is offline

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Quote Originally Posted past yung turbo View Post

how did you get the reading to come up on your nuance screen?

VFIZ interface

http://world wide web.qmatis.com/the states/devices/carte-vfiz

Phil


#7

mec is offline

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I'm confused on why you lot RE-grounded the oem sensor? When I installed my 44 DD kit and secondary sensor, I looked at the wiring and traced information technology back and the OEM sensor is already grounded, you merely had to brand a ground wire connection for the new sensor and a point wire to a gauge for the new sensor


#8

fly300kts is offline

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Quote Originally Posted past mec View Post

I'yard confused on why you RE-grounded the oem sensor? When I installed my 44 DD kit and secondary sensor, I looked at the wiring and traced it dorsum and the OEM sensor is already grounded, you just had to brand a ground wire connectedness for the new sensor and a signal wire to a gauge for the new sensor

My OEM sensor is non grounded, only ane wire (point wire) at the connector

Phil


#10

mec is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by fly300kts View Post

My OEM sensor is non grounded, merely 1 wire (signal wire) at the connector

Phil

I accept my harness in the garage and but double checked, it has ii pins for sure. Perhaps one pin is a tiptronic matter.


#11

fly300kts is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post

I accept my harness in the garage and only double checked, it has two pins for sure. Perhaps i pin is a tiptronic thing.

Might exist

Phil


#12

drewgold is offline

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Merely completed this install and have a few notes to add to Phil'southward DIY.

1. My car is a transmission 2006 2.0t and information technology had the single pole plug, same equally Phil's. Must be a MY matter.

2. I was able to fit a socket and wrench over my sensor, no need to alter in my case, may be a niggling extra room with the manual transmission? I also didn't have a deep 24mm socket but a 15/16" socket works very well.

iii. It's non necessary to cut the footing wire on the sensor. (And therefore no soldering is needed) It is grounded to the bracket that is fastened to the block immediately below the sensor. There's one hex bolt holding the bracket in place. #7 hex iirc. With this removed, you can remove the oil pressure sensor with the ground wire intact. After you take removed the ground wire, merely reinstall the bracket.

iv. I was able to mount the 42 Draft Designs relocation kit in an area that allowed the existing ground wire on the sensor to achieve the footing betoken on the firewall (Marked in Phil's picture), and the sensor wire was as well still able to achieve. (See picture) I just had to weave the sensor wire dorsum forth the parcel of wires then up toward where the ground location is.

5. Be careful when tightening the brass adapter fitting for the sensor hole. My fitting broke and I barely put any force into it. Mine may take been defective but regardless, don't over tighten this part!

Hope this info helps. And large thanks to Phil for a very helpful DIY.

Here'south a pic of the mounting location that I used. (With the coolant tank moved to the side) I just cypher-tied the 42 DD block to the wiring that'due south attached to the firewall.

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#xiv

wjg22 is offline

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When you remove the OEM sensor, how much oil is going to pour out? Not planning on going the 42DD road, only demand to replace the sensor anyway.

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#xv

Okedokey is offline

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I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo render feed. Works very well and much easier.

A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | iii.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein intermission + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.v - 4 ten DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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#xvi

Brillo is offline

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I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo return feed. Works very well and much easier.

Okedokey: I'grand not certain I understand what yous hateful. Are you measuring the oil pressure at the return line from the turbo?


#17

aluthman is offline

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Quote Originally Posted past Okedokey View Post

I got the modified banjo bolt and added mine to the turbo return feed. Works very well and much easier.

The turbo oil return line should basically exist at atmospheric force per unit area because the oil simply drips back to the pan for the most function. Are you sure you lot didn't claw it up to the turbo'southward oil supply line?

-Adam

'07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Curl|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff�
'06 A4 ii.0T Quattro - RIP (Best � mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)


#eighteen

rongeur is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

When you remove the OEM sensor, how much oil is going to pour out? Not planning on going the 42DD route, just need to supersede the sensor anyway.

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Permit the engine absurd and sit overnight. You will go some oil but virtually will have returned to the sump by then.

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#19

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Crawly, thanks human.

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#20

67Twisty is offline

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I followed Phil's DIY and used the 42DD block. Same experience as drewgold and didn't demand to add together wire length or additional ground to the sensor. I used an exacto pocketknife to cut a little of the insulated sheathing then I could move the OEM sensor to the relocated position. Too made sure to utilize a fiddling oil resistant Teflon record on the threads and no leaks afterward almost two years. Did it on a cold engine and very little oil came out when removing the sensor. I call back you get a better reading at this location than on the turbo line. Information technology'due south also not quite as hot on this side of the engine bay which helps when considering routing for the additional sensor wire.


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#21

Okedokey is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post

The turbo oil return line should basically exist at atmospheric pressure because the oil just drips back to the pan for the most part. Are you lot sure you didn't hook information technology upwardly to the turbo's oil supply line?

It volition all be pressurised. It said specifically Non to use the supply line.

A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage Ii + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.five - iv 10 DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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#22

aluthman is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post

It will all be pressurised. It said specifically NOT to use the supply line.

Near turbos have some blazon of oil restrictor in the supply line to regulated catamenia to the turbo. This so drains from the CHRA into a much larger hose which is continued to the oil pan. The oil in the pan sees crankcase pressure simply, which should be at atmospheric pressure or fifty-fifty a vacuum. If y'all hooked in to the return line and are seeing pressure, it's not an accurate reading.

-Adam

'07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Whorl|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff�
'06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (All-time � mile laissez passer 13.634 @ 103.thirty)


#23

Okedokey is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post

Most turbos accept some blazon of oil restrictor in the supply line to regulated flow to the turbo. This then drains from the CHRA into a much larger hose which is continued to the oil pan. The oil in the pan sees crankcase pressure only, which should be at atmospheric pressure or even a vacuum. If you hooked in to the return line and are seeing pressure, it'southward not an accurate reading.

Lamentable, you're correct, turbo feed line with this kit:

A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + frazzle + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-East + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

My respray thread


#24

Van Black is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by drewgold View Post

Just completed this install and have a few notes to add to Phil's DIY.

Where does that thin hose from the vacuum line beneath the ground stud go to? That vacuum valve is plugged at the small side on my automobile

-Alex-

07 A4 two.0 TFSI Quattro,Rebuilt engine, BPG pistons, S-Line interior, S-Line pause, S4 brakes, RNS-Eastward & Bose


#25

ahotboy15 is offline

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and perchance add a impale switch if the pressure gets "low" or "too depression" not sure if in that location is a difference only none the less a kill switch would have prolly saved my engine from getting wiped. some other dandy DIY phil


#27

wjg22 is offline

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Sometime thread bump, simply I'm sourcing parts to exercise this DIY. I've been scouring eBay and amazon to find a 100psi 0-four.5V pressure transducer/sender with M10x1 threads. Does anyone have a link to what they used that fits the pecker? The one that Phil linked to is no longer for sale and nearly of these other senders seem to be one/8" NPT...I guess a thread adapter is always an choice.

Follow up question: for wiring into a p3 multigauge, I understand that the new sensor will have one wire become to ground, another to the gauge analog input, and the third gets power from somewhere? 5v in? Any input from those who take something like this set up would be greatly appreciated.

Will


#28

z_wrecker is offline

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Then the sensor on their site is no good? The 1 you recommended I get earlier today

Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

Old thread bump, but I'm sourcing parts to practice this DIY. I've been scouring eBay and amazon to find a 100psi 0-4.5V pressure transducer/sender with M10x1 threads. Does anyone accept a link to what they used that fits the pecker? The one that Phil linked to is no longer for sale and well-nigh of these other senders seem to be 1/eight" NPT...I guess a thread adapter is always an choice.

Follow up question: for wiring into a p3 multigauge, I understand that the new sensor will take ane wire get to ground, another to the gauge analog input, and the third gets ability from somewhere? 5v in? Any input from those who accept something like this gear up would be greatly appreciated.

Will

2018 Daytona Gray S4
2009 Pearl white Ducati Monster 696 with Termi race kit, and bunch of CF


#29

wjg22 is offline

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I didn't know what the voltage was at the time, but afterwards finding that sensor on VDO'southward website it looks like its 6-24V. For the p3 gauge it says to employ 0-5V, then I'll probably have to return that one I just bought from 42DD Since y'all accept Vfiz though it may or may non work for you lot, I'yard not certain.


#30

Older_not_Wiser is offline

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For P3, I used 42DD hose and manifold, and a sender pretty close to this (mine was 0-100 psi):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9KLGJ6...SIN=B01I9KLGJ6

You do not accept to use an M10 Ten 1 sender equally the 42DD has ports for both M10 10 1 (two) and 1/eight NPT (2)

P3 purple wire to In (+) 5V wire on sender (reddish on linked sender)
P3 Chocolate-brown wire to Out wire on sender (yellow on linked sender)
Blackness wire on sender just needs to go to ground somewhere

Since virtually senders are labeled as 0 - 5V senders, they actually are 0.5V - 4.5V senders where 0.5V is equal to 0 PSI and 4.5 V is equal to Max Force per unit area (unremarkably 100 PSI or 150 PSI depending on sensor). Often times the sensor will come up with a tabular array with the PSI readings at diverse voltage outputs. Setting upwards the P3 judge to get it to read properly is a piffling odd. This is what I had to practise for my sender which is 100 PSI max (it will be different for 150PSI sender).

Edit #2: Actually looking at the paradigm, information technology got cut off and does not show the 5V value. The 5V value should exist 113. And so for P3 gauge with a sender that has these values:

0.5V => 0 PSI
2.5V => 50 PSI
4.5V => 100 PSI

You lot should set A1.Lo to -13 and A1.Hi to 113

Last edited by Older_not_Wiser; 08-23-2017 at 03:49 PM. Reason: fix link

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#31

wjg22 is offline

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Thanks for such a comprehensive answer. Hither I am searching for a sender with M10 threads, the damn 42DD accepts both. But that answers my question about wiring everything upwards too. I appreciate the help.


#32

z_wrecker is offline

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Well assurance.....should have checked their site first. It requires the same pressure sensor P3 does

Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

I didn't know what the voltage was at the time, but after finding that sensor on VDO'due south website it looks similar its 6-24V. For the p3 guess it says to use 0-5V, so I'll probably take to render that i I merely bought from 42DD Since y'all have Vfiz though it may or may not work for you, I'm not certain.

2018 Daytona Gray S4
2009 Pearl white Ducati Monster 696 with Termi race kit, and bunch of CF


#33

wjg22 is offline

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If you lot simply ordered it today you lot might be able to cancel before information technology ships.


#34

z_wrecker is offline

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They are ane state over and information technology shipped 25 minutes later on the order. I'll meet if I can return information technology, if non not a big deal.

Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

If you lot just ordered it today yous might exist able to abolish before information technology ships.

2018 Daytona Gray S4
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#35

wjg22 is offline

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I just sent them an e-mail well-nigh it. I'll follow upwardly with you when I hear back.


#36

wjg22 is offline

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@z_wrecker 42DD emailed me dorsum today with a render # saying that it was no problem. If y'all're interested in returning the sender as well just e-mail sales@42draftdesigns.com


#37

z_wrecker is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

@z_wrecker 42DD emailed me back today with a return # proverb that information technology was no trouble. If you lot're interested in returning the sender besides simply e-mail sales@42draftdesigns.com

Thanks. I'll follow up with them this afternoon.

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2018 Daytona Gray S4
2009 Pearl white Ducati Monster 696 with Termi race kit, and bunch of CF


#38

wjg22 is offline

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Just finished this DIY today. Many cheers to Phil for the thread and to older_not_wiser for his explanation on the wiring specific to the p3 approximate. I did all of the wiring prep last dark which fabricated this a 2 hr install start to finish. Totally worth it for the peace of mind of existence able to keep an eye on oil pressure


#39

z_wrecker is offline

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Quote Originally Posted by wjg22 View Post

Just finished this DIY today. Many thanks to Phil for the thread and to older_not_wiser for his caption on the wiring specific to the p3 approximate. I did all of the wiring prep last night which fabricated this a 2 hour install start to end. Totally worth it for the peace of heed of being able to keep an eye on oil pressure

Practise you lot have a link for the sensor you ordered?

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2018 Daytona Greyness S4
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#40

wjg22 is offline

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Eyourlife Universal 100PSI Pressure Transducer Sender Solenoid for Oil Fuel Gas Air Water #E5 https://world wide web.amazon.com/dp/B00RCPDPRQ..._AmpqGlFGyiDe1


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Source: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644554-DIY-Oil-pressure-Read-Out

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